[Advendure]: Let’s start the interview with a “journey” back in time to 2017, at Metsovo and the Ursa Trail mountain running race. We admired you not only for your victory and outstanding performance, coming just 20 seconds short of the course record, but also for the way you experienced the race. Your interaction with spectators and fellow runners showed an athlete who was genuinely enjoying the experience. Many Advendure readers recalled these moments through the presentation article we published a few days ago. So, we would like you to share how you remember that experience. How did you experience the race in Greece? What impression did running in the Greek mountains and the overall organization leave on you?

[Karl Egloff]: Metsovo—the race itself, the organization, the audience, and the hosts—everything was a great experience. I was coming back from the Elbrus FKT in Russia and stopped in Greece. It was a beautiful moment for me to have my son (8) watch me run in a race for the first time. It was amazing to cross the finish line with him and so many other kids that day. I would come back to Greece any day—just nice memories and a beautiful course.

[Advendure]: In recent years, you have dedicated yourself to speed climbing, achieving impressive FKTs on some of the most challenging peaks in the world. We had asked you about this in our interview back in 2017, but now, with the passage of time and so many new experiences, it feels even more important to hear from you: what is it that draws you to this solitary and dangerous sport?

[Karl Egloff]: I grew up with a father who was a mountain guide, so I was introduced to the mountains at a very young age—so young that I don’t even remember it. When I started becoming a teenager, my big dream was to become an international mountain guide. I don’t feel afraid of being alone on a big mountain; there is a lot of respect. For me, being out there alone and fast is a hybrid sport between mountaineering and trail running—a combination of freedom and danger. I love being out there, but I also know it’s dangerous, so I try every day to be well-prepared and well-educated for any eventuality. I hope to make the right decisions.

[Advendure]: Can we assume that the beautiful family you’ve created hasn’t diminished your daring when it comes to the danger and risk of your endeavors? Your consistent performances show that you continue to take significant risks. Alright, it might be a philosophical question, but we’re interested in hearing the perspective of someone who literally lives in adrenaline and risk.

[Karl Egloff]: They have always known me as a mountain guide. I met my wife while guiding her, and she respects what I do. My kids love their dad the way he is, but every athlete’s life has its end, and mine is coming soon. I want to enjoy the rest of the big projects before I can fully focus on them and their dreams. In the end, it’s always a teamwork effort. Without them, I would never be pursuing such big projects, and from my side, I need to know when it’s over and give all that time back to them.

[Advendure]: You’re preparing for a big FKT project, the ascent and descent to the most iconic summit of the Himalayas from the Base Camp in under 24 hours, without the use of supplemental oxygen. Could you give us more details about this endeavor? What led you to choose this challenge, and what are the key preparations required for something like this?

[Karl Egloff]: This new project is part of the 7 Summits. My project is to break all 7 Summits FKTs—I have 4 so far, and the summit in the Himalayas is the next. Of course, this one is more expensive and more dangerous because of the death zone. It’s also more demanding in preparation than any other mountain before, and it requires a huge team behind me, so I’m aware of how challenging it will be.

To be able to move fast and light in the death zone without supplementary oxygen, to keep eating, drinking, and staying in shape to get down—it’s hard. But this is why I’ve been training harder than ever before, with a huge team, a lot of science, and many hours in hypoxic conditions. I even moved to Switzerland to get the support I need.

My only wish is to look at myself in the mirror and know I’m my best version. Anything else—whether I break the record or not—is relative. It’s more about being the best Karl I can be, as a message to my kids and family.

[Advendure]: Let’s stay on the next big Himalayan project and consider the restrictions imposed by Nepal’s new regulations, as well as the commercialization that has taken over this legendary mountain. We are seeing future attempts planned with nitrogen use, while the summit ridge is filled with long lines of climbers-clients, waiting as if they were waiting for a bus. How does someone who makes ascents without oxygen and following the pure, traditional alpine style view all of this?

[Karl Egloff]: We have to believe in our sport, in the effort, the dedication, and the alpine style—in how much goes into an ascent and descent like this, with decades of training. Of course, the world has changed, and in a few years, people will probably fly to the summit in a helicopter with full oxygen just to get their Instagram picture. But we can’t think it’s all over. We have to keep focusing on the “how”—the “how” matters.

I’m fully focused on following the anticyclonic movement in the expeditions to know when the mountain will give me a day and just listening to the mountain and my perception. I respect everyone, especially the mountain. I promised my family that I wouldn’t risk the weather window. If there is never a good day without many climbers reaching the summit, I will respect that and come back home.

[Advendure]: The Himalayan attempt, as far as we know, is not an isolated project but part of a series of seven ascents, four of which you’ve already completed with records: Kilimanjaro, Aconcagua, Elbrus, and Denali. Which mountains remain, and what was the thinking behind this timeless project? How did you choose the mountains and the goals?

[Karl Egloff]: When I first completed Kilimanjaro, the goal of all 7 Summits was set, but I never imagined how expensive and complicated it would be in the end. By 2019, I had completed 4 but couldn’t continue because I didn’t have the budget. Then the pandemic arrived, and I lost all my sponsors. I really thought it was over.

In July 2024, I came to Switzerland with my family to start over from scratch and began working hard. After a while, the support arrived, and my motivation started to rise again. Today, I’m fully motivated, training almost full-time, and more focused than ever, with a huge team behind me, bringing out my best version.

That makes me happy—not staying up all night worrying about the result, but just being grateful for this second chance and giving it my all one more time.

[Advendure]: You are the undisputed king of Aconcagua! What feelings do you have for this iconic mountain, which you not only use for training but has also hosted some of your most impressive FKTs?

[Karl Egloff]: Aconcagua was my very first international mountain, apart from Ecuador, where I grew up. After the Kilimanjaro FKT, I decided Aconcagua should be next, and it turned into a back-to-back race with Kilian Jornet—the great and legendary Kilian. So yes, Aconcagua means much more to me than just a mountain or a record. I have been guiding, training, and racing there for more than 17 years.

I was able to climb with Nicolas all three possible faces (Polish Glacier, Normal Route, and South Face) in just 8 days. Before that, I achieved the FKT of the Normal Route—Parking Gate to Summit and back—in 2015, along with many other records, happy clients, and expeditions. But what makes this mountain so special? Its people—the Argentinians. Simply great people and beautiful memories.

[Advendure]: We’d love for you to share with us the most challenging and the most beautiful moment you’ve experienced during your ascents on the mountains of the world.

[Karl Egloff]: One of the most beautiful moments in a race happened in Metsovo. I won the race, came back to the hotel, and while I was taking a quick shower, the room service phone rang. I picked up, and the receptionist said, “Mr. Egloff, there is a kid who wants to meet you.” I said to my wife, “What kid?”

I love children, so I immediately went down to the reception. A 6-7-year-old boy was standing there, speechless. I asked him what his name was, but he just stood there. I took off my cap, gave it to him, and said, “Sorry that I can’t speak your language.” He ran out with a huge smile. The receptionist said to me, “Beautiful. This kid couldn’t open his mouth because of the admiration.” That was such a beautiful moment for me—a reminder that language isn’t always necessary.

In the mountains, I have faced very challenging moments. For example, I once hung by ice axes on the South Face of Aconcagua when my partner said, “Karl, I can’t anymore. Cut the rope.” I had to make decisions. I’ve had frostbite on my feet and moments of hallucination that were terrifying, like on Makalu in the death zone, again with my climbing partner, at the limit.

Those moments make us stronger and, hopefully, smarter for the next time. We can only hope to always make the right moves.

[Advendure]: Nico Miranda: Your partner in many challenging projects, including the upcoming Everest attempt. Could you share a few words about your friend and what he means to you?

[Karl Egloff]: Nico is like a brother to me—I could write a book about him. Nico introduced me to non-commercial expeditions, mountains, and routes. He was the one who introduced me to speed climbing, being himself the king of the scene. He made me better, faster, and famous, but also a very humble man. With Nico, we dreamed of one day breaking all 7 summits. Now, with Everest, it will be number 5, so this dream is still in progress. I’m so happy he’s coming with me once more to a big mountain. This gives me peace and motivation to share every day out there with a good friend.

[Advendure]: What advice would you give to young athletes who wish to follow in your footsteps in the world of speedhiking FKT attempts?

[Karl Egloff]: I would say go for it, but never skip any steps. Go step by step—hike, climb, get faster, go higher, go lighter. You can't start this sport the way it looks on social media; you have to start with the basics and gain a lot of experience out there—years, decades. I'm sure you can do everything you want if you follow the progression and stay motivated.

[Advendure]: We’ll close the interview with a taste of Greece: Will you visit us again in the future, either for a mountain running race or for an FKT attempt on one of our mountains, if an invitation arises? Is there anything you’d like to say to the readers of Advendure, who love the outdoors and mountains?

[Karl Egloff]: I have trained for two years in a row for Everest, and do you know what’s on my mind after it? Greek islands in the middle of nowhere. I would love to travel to Greece with my family to enjoy those postcard-like views, and I’m sure I’ll be back running in the Greek mountains too. Such a beautiful country!

Dimitrios Troupis